摘要
此篇论文主要论述贵州地区的背扇,并以蜡染为主要工艺下的背扇研宄。本文通过在贵州地区的实地考察,以及对北京服装学院博物馆馆藏实物的测量与观察的方法对背扇展幵研宄。首先对贵州不同地区以风格、造型、图案寓意、工艺等方面对蜡染背扇进行梳理和归纳,由于贵州地区少数民族众多,每一个少数民族之间的蜡染背扇都会有一些细微的差别,所以把相近或相似的进行归类。其次贵州少数民族虽同处大山深处,但由于民族性格、民族心理与民族文化的不同,所产生风格各异的装饰效果的原因,并探寻构成蜡染背扇的丰富装饰性与装饰手法之间的关联性。宄其原因,并将这样规律以及装饰元素的组合搭配的方法叙述成文字,为我们现代服装设计提供参考。以及结合现代人的审美方式和高科技手段对蜡染装饰元素重新组合或演绎。本文也通过在毕业创作中将贵州蜡染背扇作为灵感来源设计了一系列的毕业作品,并简要描述如何将蜡染背扇元素应用在我的毕业设计中。
关键词:贵州;蜡染;背扇;装饰元素;服装设计
ABSTRACT
This paper mainly discussed about the swaddling clothes in Guizhou Area and studiedthe swaddling clothes that mainly made by wax batik craftsmanship. The study on theswaddling clothes in this paper was conducted on the basis of field investigation on GuizhouArea and measurement and observation on the material object that reserved in the Museum ofBeijing Institute of Fashion Technology. Firstly, this paper introduced and summarized thewax-printing swaddling clothes from styles, models, implied meaning of patterns,craftsmanship, etc. As there are many ethnic minorities in Guizhou Province, the wax-printingswaddling clothes made by each minority enjoys slight differences, therefore, the similar onesare classified into one category. Secondly, although the ethnic minorities in Guizhou Provincelive in the deep mountain areas, they are different in their personalities, psychology andcultures, thus producing distinctive decorations on the swaddling clothes. This paper aims toexplore the connections between the rich decorates on the wax-printing swaddling clothes anddecoration methods, and summarize the rules and combination methods of these decorativeelements in words, so as to provide reference to the modern fashion design in our country.
Combining the aesthetic way of modern people with high-tech skills to recreate or reuse thewax-printing decorative elements. This paper took the wax-printing swaddling clothes inGuizhou Area as the source of inspiration and designed a series of graduation project, as wellas briefly introduced how to apply the design elements of wax-printing swaddling clothes intothe graduation project.
Key words: Guizhou, Batik, Swaddling clothes,Decorative element,Fashion design
目录
1 绪论
1.1贵州蜡染背扇的研究背景与现状
1.2贵州蜡染背扇的研宄目的与意义
2贵州蜡染背扇概述
2.1贵州蜡染背扇历史来源
2. 1. 1背扇的形成原因
2. 1.2背扇的功能特点
2. 1.3背扇的图案寓意
2.2贵州地区蜂染背扇材质与制作工艺
2. 2.1蜡染背扇的材质、工具及制作过程
2.2. 2蜡染背扇的工具与材质的关系
3贵州地区蜡染背扇的装饰风格特征
3.1赌染背扇的造型元素
3.1.1各地区背扇的造型类型
3.1. 2背扇形状与内容的装饰关系
3.2蜡染背扇的工艺元素
3. 2. 1背扇工具与表现技法组合的装饰风格差异
3. 2. 2蜡染背扇与刺绣结合的装饰效果的关系
3.3蜡染背扇的图案寓意元素
3. 3.1图案寓意装饰与当地审美的关系
3. 3. 2图案的装饰与功能的关系
3.3. 3图案与傩文化的关系
4贵州蜡染背扇装饰风格元素对现代服装设计创新应用
4.1蜡染背扇的色彩在服装设计的创新
4.1. 1蜡染蓝白色系
4. 1.2蜡染套色系
4. 1.3錯染创新色系
4. 2蜡染背扇的图案在服装设计的创新应用
4.2. 1单独寓意图案的创新应用
4. 2. 2与现代纹样结合创新
4. 2. 3复合式图案纹样创新
4. 3錯染和其他工艺结合服装设计中的创新应用
4.4錯染背扇理念寓意在服装设计中的创新应用
5背扇元素在个人毕业设计中的创新应用
5.1.背扇结构及理念的创新应用
5. 2.背扇色彩元素的创新应用
5. 3.背扇图案元素的创新应用
6 结论
参考文献
致谢